KUMIHAMA

I finally arrive in Kumihama after numerous taxi’s, trains and buses. And also three phone calls to my host yelling ”HELP” I am lost and no one speaks or understands English and my google translate does not seem to be doing the job. The train stations in both Osaka and Kyoto are massive structures with tons of people running about. The signs are not translated to English as in most European countries

Kumihama is a picturesque coastal fishing village, a few hours north of Kyoto, sitting on the Sea of Japan and surrounded by mountains. Once a popular destination for Japanese tourist coming to the seaside for a rest.  Unfortunately, like many other places around the world the town has experienced a decline in visitors and revenue after COVID.  The loss of revenue has forced many locals to leave the area and look to bigger cities for opportunities.

My HelpX host and his family have a long history in Kumihama. The family had a sea side restaurant and small hotel business for many years.  Atsushi, my host is in his early 40’s. He lives in the same house/restaurant/hotel he was raised in with his wife, a 14 year old daughter, his father who is 85 and his mother in her early 80’s. His father is in pretty good health and cooks almost all the meals in the very large restaurant kitchen which we all use.  Every day, the grandfather helps me a little with my Japanese and always cooks a little extra for me to try. And he has allowed me to try his home make Japanese wine which is delicious.

I have arrived at “off” season of sorts.  The oysters and clams have just recently been put out and are still “growing”. I went out to the bay a few times upon arrival with Atsushi and a young girl, Alice, who is here from France working as well. The work required jumping on to a floating platform and walking around narrow wooden planks checking the bins where the oysters are growing. I regret to say I was not very steady walking those narrow, moving planks and not strong enough to help lift the bins, hence I have been delegated to house work.  They run a small Air B and B that I help look after and clean.

I enjoy walking around the village in the evenings when it cools off a bit. The locals are starting to recognize me and we always exchange “konbanwa’s”- good evening and bow to each other.  Of all the Japanese customs of being polite, clean, quiet, and careful I enjoy the bowing the most. It makes me feel royal.

The major “religions”, if you will, are Buddhism and Shinto so I am not surprised to learn there are over 80,00 major temples in Japan.  Most households I pass on my evening walk have a small temple out front to honor family members that have passed or honoring a god. There are several temples in town that I visit each evening. It always makes me feel peaceful just walking through them. And I am careful not to step on any ants- one of their beliefs is not to harm or kill anything. However I do confess to killing several mosquitos!!

First day on the boat

Fishing Village

These clams came in underweight and we had to eat all of them.

I made New England clam chowder with some- no one really liked it!!

Shrine out side a home I passed- they left a cold drink and chips for him.

Carved wooden statue at local temple

Homemade Ramen -delicious!

You can not see it on the map, but Japan is made up of 6,800 islands

Japanese is very difficult to speak, read and understand.