THE END

The last day of walking was energizing, knowing we would enter Santiago in the late afternoon. We walked through farms, forest, paved roads and even a little on the shoulder of a busy highway which was terrifying. We could see the tall steeple of the basilica in the distance and it looked massive and majestic.

As we approached, we noted other pilgrims, some carrying their back packs and all of them tired, a little worn around the edges but a smile on their faces. No matter where you start on the road, it is always about 10 kilometers on the last day for all of us.  As we entered the large square of the basilica there was a man playing the bagpipes to welcome us in.

Many just laid down in the square using their backpack for a pillow and did not move for hours. I sat in the square and marveled at the sight, the massive ancient basilica and the fact that I had walked so far, at least far for me. One of the most dramatic sights is the Gloria Portico, which is the main entrance of the basilica. It is decorated with 200 figures representing the Apocalypse and the large figure of Saint James. The Basilica was consecrated in 1211 which in itself humbled me to be standing in front of something so ancient with so much history around it.

We saw a few pilgrims we had stayed with in albergues earlier and we all congratulated each other and hugged. As I sat and took it all in I decided I am not an idiot, The route I took was beautiful and after a few days the hills did not bother me much, I learned a lot along the way from other pilgrims, there was always someone to help, even the local farmers.

There is a pilgrim’s mass several times a day at the basilica and we were able to make the last mass that evening. I lit candles around the church to all the saints, just grateful for the safety and the end of the journey. I also attended Sunday mass with the bishop which was stately in nature, with a Bishop and 4 priest attending him and a slew of altar boys and a choir that brought tears to my eyes.

After a few nights rest some if the pilgrims decide to walk another 3 days to Finesterre, which literally means “the end of earth.”  When people before us thought the world was flat this was the place, they called the end of earth. Of course Christopher sailed and found out otherwise. I had no desire to walk it and took a bus to explore and take photos.

Over the next few days, I said good bye to friends I had met along the Camino. Some going on to Barcelona, Seville or home. But I decided to stay in Santiago de Compostela for a few more days, which actually turned into almost a week. I went to mass almost every day and met others who had been on the road for as long as 2 months or as short as a few days. It was always a great experience meeting and talking to others who had come in from their journey.

I also met Jose while there. A nice-looking man about 15 years younger than me. He took an immediate interest in me and called me “hermosa”, “guapa” every day – of course I paid him a little to say this and eventually started buying him lunch. I would pick up the ubiquitous “bocadilla’s” sold on every corner. It consists of a delicious rustic roll with -Iberico -Spain’s famous ham. I would stand outside where he was sitting with his cup to drop coins in and just talk about the weather, you know how the rain in Spain falls gently on the plains!

 On our third “date“ we discovered we were both single and he immediately proposed marriage. He said “We are both single, what better reason to marry?” and I agreed maybe it really is just that simple. We started to plan a “Boda” for next May when I hope to return and walk more of the Camino.

I think the most human kindness you can do for someone homeless, who is asking for money is ask them their name. Don’t look down or away, don’t tell them where to go to get help, don’t lecture on why they are on the streets, don’t let judgement enter your head, just ask them their name and then say it out loud and then say something like “Jose, what do you think about his weather?”

The shortest!!